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Clothing Design
If you are
considering a career in fashion design, you’ve come to
the right place. It is possible to earn decent money in
a wide variety of home-based fashion businesses,
and you don’t have to live in New York, Paris, or
London. All
you need to do is learn fashion engineering in Laurel's Contemporary Fashion Education program! (At Philadelphia University the program is titled Industrial Fashion Methods (IFM).
If you choose to design clothing, buyers for department stores and boutiques will consider
your designs only if you can deliver the finished
product. Whether you will make the product yourself, or
hire someone to make it for you, you need to be
knowledgeable – preferably with hands-on training –
about how the product is made. Fashion design is labor
intensive. Success involves both engineering and
artistic abilities. This is hard work, but worth the
effort!
Begin by reading trade papers and attending clothing
design trade shows to learn all you can about the industry and
the future trends they are predicting. (Trade show
schedules are listed in the trade papers.) You will need
a business card to attend the trade shows, as entrance
is almost always limited to business-to-business. Consider giving
your business your name in the beginning so you can use your personal
banking account for your business. Keep notes on
everything you do to help you write your business plan.
Decide who your market will be. Write a profile
that describes your typical customer. Include her
approximate height; and her bust, waist, and hip
circumferences. Make a portable portfolio of about 10 to
20 clothing styles or ensembles that presents your
design ideas for your market. Use clothing photos and
illustrations cut from trade papers and magazine
advertisements. Include your own illustrations if they
are professional level.
At the shows ask exhibitors about their businesses and
how they got started. Show them your portfolio to get
their reactions. Because styles change quickly, don’t
worry about copyrights. If you have something in your
portfolio that is unique and unusual, take it out before
attending the show. Keep in mind that a vendor may
contract with you or be willing to represent you at
future shows. Ask exhibitors how they sell, what should
be in a contract, and what problems they have had in the
past. Find out how much it would cost to rent the
smallest space possible, what rules apply, and what you
would need to set up a booth. Take notes.
The benefits of participating in a clothing design trade show,
especially in NYC, far outweigh the costs. Volumes of
people attend these shows, many flying in from all over
the world. Buyers for markets you may never have known
about will see your products, all within a three-day
period. You MUST be well prepared.
This is how you prepare: |
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Mary Ellen, IFM student,
models her successful pant muslin from her first pant
draft. This was the first time she had ever drafted a
pattern. |
Write your fashion design business plan.
It can start as just a loose-leaf notebook of business ideas.
Put in your research and ideas, including what type of clothing
you would like to design and manufacture, and what market you
think would buy that type of clothing. Include prices,
addresses, etc.
Determine whether you would hire others to produce your
design boards, draft the patterns, and sew the samples; or if
you would prefer to do some or all of it yourself. Either way,
you need to learn these skills. Take the needed classes; making
sure your professor has done the work in the industry. Ask to
audit a class before signing up. While there talk with students
about the classes to make sure they are right for you. Tell your
professor what you are planning to do so she can help you
prepare. Allow two years to learn these skills. Once learned,
time all procedures to help with pricing and with writing your
business plan.
Now you are ready to prepare your trade show exhibit.
Design and upgrade your line(s) of clothing by pulling together
as many ideas as possible. Organize magazine advertisements,
illustrations, and sketches into outfits. Take your time. Work
until you have at least ten to twenty styles or outfits that you
are happy with. Choose the very best five or six.
Next, do the math. Estimate the wholesale price for each
garment by multiplying by three the cost of supplies needed to
make the garment. Then multiply the wholesale price by two to
determine the highest probable retail price. Compare your retail
prices with those for similar clothing in the stores. Query
people you consider typical of your intended market to learn
whether that market likes the garment(s) and is willing to pay
the retail price. Use your time studies to cost/estimate the
total time to make each garment you are considering marketing.
Eliminate styles that will not be profitable and are unlikely to
sell. Add styles that are, so you again have five or six chosen
styles.
Make design boards from foam board sold at art supply
stores. Show a style or ensemble on each board. Swatch with
fabric in two or three color ways. Then, if possible, arrange a
meeting with a buyer from a local store that sells to customers
typical of your chosen market. Ask her if she would give you an
honest evaluation of your line of clothing. Take your resume and
wear clothing you have made to show that you can make the
clothing represented on your boards. Ask her questions you asked
the exhibitors at the trade show. Be willing to take criticism.
It can hurt, but in the long run you are more likely to be
successful if you listen to her critique. If she finds you can
take criticism, she may give you an order.

"Today clothing is often
sold off the boards before any samples have ever been cut and
sewn. This 20 by 30 inch concept board presents the designer's
ideas for a line of denim clothing. She will discuss the ideas
presented on the board with the buyer. Then the designer will
make a new board to show the clothing the buyer wants to buy. No
clothing will be cut and sewn until the buyer has approved the
clothing shown on the final board."
If the anticipated workload looks high, research what
manufacturer to contract with. Research all manufacturing
procedures and costs. Allow for hidden expenses. Determine the
break-even point and go over all finances. Most factories will
not consider orders for less than 1000 garments of one style,
although you might find a contractor who will consider
manufacturing an order as small as 500. As a precaution, check
their references and their status with the Better Business
Bureau. For now, plan to keep all manufacturing in the USA.
Going offshore is too problematic for a startup company.
Likewise, during start up, because of potential export/import
problems plan not to sell to buyers outside the USA.
If you prefer to keep your business small, plan to sell
no more garments than you and/or your staff can produce.
Determine that number BEFORE going to the show.
Finally, determine a full set of measurements for your
sample size; determine the bust, waist, and hip circumferences
for all sizes in your chosen size range. For help with this
refer to the measurement charts in any mail order catalogue.
Create a basic sloper (a basic shell pattern from which pattern
styles are drafted) from the sample size measurements. Use your
sloper to draft the patterns – in the sample size only – for the
styles you plan to market. (Using a sloper to develop the
patterns ensures that all garments in each size will fit your
company’s established measurements [grade rule].) Keep the
number of styles and sizes low, no more than five or six. At all
stages of sample production ask yourself, Would I buy it? If the
answer is Yes, continue. Make no more than two samples of each
style. Time, as you cut and sew, to help with the final costing
of each garment. Determine the turn-around time and add a week,
so you can tell the buyer when her orders should arrive.
After you make the sample clothing, upgrade or make a new design
board for each style or ensemble. Show the style or ensemble in
two or three color ways; give the size range. Swatch with fabric
and trims that will be sewn on the garments. List the wholesale
and suggested retail prices on the back of each board.
Make sure you are well prepared for the show. You will need a
contract and a purchase order listing the details of the
agreement. Have your lawyer, or one of the many organizations
that help new businesses at low or no fees, go over the contract
before you go to the show. Consider putting a contingency in the
contract stating that if there are not enough orders for a style
to make a profit for your company, the buyer’s deposit money
will be refunded. Check with your bank to learn if they would
approve a loan if you get sufficient orders. Pack ahead of time
to make sure you have everything you need. Arrive early. Set up
long before the show opens. Stay at your booth. Have a
knowledgeable helper and cell phones, if possible, so you can
take a short break once in awhile. If a buyer is interested in
any of your samples, don't promise more than you can
realistically deliver by the due date. Get the buyer's signature
on the order. Request that part of the order be paid up front
(so you have money to buy the raw materials), with the balance
due on delivery. Now you are on your way, in the fashion
industry, with real customers!
Once the styles have sold, the patterns need to be graded and
the garments cut and sewn. Because you have these skills, if the
number of orders is small, you can do much of this work
yourself. If the number is large, before giving a factory an
order, have them produce several samples for you. Because you
have taken the courses and are knowledgeable, you are capable of
judging the quality of their work.
Follow up. Check that your customers are happy and that
your employees and contractors are producing and delivering
quality goods as promised.
Can you believe? In the IFM 6-course program and from its
step-by-step, fully diagrammed textbooks you will learn all of
the design room and business skills you need to do this. That is
because, unlike most fashion design programs, the courses are
multi-disciplined. You see, step-by-step, how what you are
learning fits into the whole. There is also a course on business
plan writing, and all courses emphasize bottom line and
profitability. This program is a MUST for anyone interested in
starting a home-based clothing design business! If you produce
an excellent, affordable product, your business will succeed
tremendously!
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